As we flew over the Tasman sea, getting a final glimpse of Sydney harbour, we were full of excitement and anticipation - we were after all heading...for New Zealand!
Ever since we conceived of this trip, NZ was always high up on the list and we were desperately hoping that we would not be disappointed. At times it is difficult to match up your prior perceptions of a country with the reality once you are there: we could have put money on the fact that we would be thrilled by Japan yet we left a little underwhelmed, we were unsure of what to expect from China but we were totally blown away, and Laos - a country we didn't even originally plan to visit- still holds a special place in our hearts. So how would NZ fair?
...it was simply stunning! or as Murray would say in Flight of the Conchords: 'New Zealand...rocks!!!'
One traveller we met neatly summed it up: 'other countries you visit have beautiful vistas, sweeping coasts, snowy mountains and gorgeous beaches. New Zealand has all of this - and whats more, it's in 3D.' As we travelled through both the South and North islands it was one stunning landscape after another - once you learn to close you mouth through the gawping at the sheer beauty, it becomes more viceral and you connect with the landscapes around you. All we could keep saying was: 'wow, this place is good for the soul'. An Indian taxi driver we met said that when he left Delhi for NZ and first got a glimpse of Queenstown all he could think was: 'if there is a heaven, it must surely look like this'.
After chilling out in Wellington for five days (we realised we hadn't stopped in one location for more than four days since mid-November!) in a homely flat overlooking the harbour, it was time to hit the South Island. We travelled through sunny Nelson, coastal Abel Tasman, the breathtaking Marlborough Sounds, the picturesquely set Queenstown and sublime Milford Sounds before heading back to the North Island to take in the lake towns of Rotorua and Taupo and the alpine climbs of Tongariro. And as ever, we had much fun along the way...
Super Furry Animals:
Unsurprisingly, New Zealand has offered us ample opportunities to continue feeding our near-obsession with all forms of funky wildlife. I (SB) in particular have fallen in love with the national emblem of this wonderful country, the Kiwi bird. In Wellington, we went searching for these shy, nocturnal flightless animals on a night walk in the Karori sanctuary, a huge forested area where the Kiwi, once close to extinction, are protected from predators like stoats and possums, allowing the population the chance to get back to normal levels. True to form, while everyone was stumbling around, a Kiwi was spotted standing nonchanlantly watching us by B, ensuring us the best view of one of these cute creatures, which most New Zealanders haven't been lucky enough to see in the wild. Things got even better during our visit to a conservation project in Rotorua, when we met a brand new Kiwi chick, hatched only an hour before we arrived, a bundle of damp feathers, a ridiculous beak and huge feet - honestly, very cute! So it's offical, we have become twitchers...there is no hope for us.
I believe I can fly...
Some of you have enquired whether the adrenalin sports bug has bitten us since we arrived in NZ, given the ample opportunities here to throw yourself off pretty much anything you want. You'll be glad to know that we have taken advantage of almost everything dangerous we could get our hands on. We started in Nelson, in the South island, with tandem paragliding - an awesome experience where you get to look like a Top Gun extra in your jumpsuit, clip on a big harness (and on to your pilot), walk off a very high hill and you're in the air. It was magical, as close to flying as it's possible to get. Gazing over the oceans and forest, the world looked beautiful and we were hooked. What could we try next?
Arriving in Queenstown, we jumped straight on the Shotover Jet - a water-propelled jet boat that you whiz up and down a very narrow river on at ridiculous speeds, the driver twisting perilously close to the canyon walls and spinning round 360 degrees, several times. I would describe it as a rollercoaster ride on water and one of the most fun things we have done. Not content to stop there, we splashed out on a long-held dream and went up at dawn over Queenstown for an hour long flight in a hot air balloon, rising through the eerily quiet cloud cover to see another world of mountain tops glistening in the early morning sun. It was truly brilliant - very civilised and very cool, finished off with a great champagne breakfast, which B took full advantage of, polishing off enough to feed several overweight Americans - well, we had paid for it!
Surely that was enough, but no, we had one last big flourish left - the ultimate: a tandem skydive from 15,000 feet over Lake Taupo, the glistening cone of the Tongariro volcano in the background. More jumpsuits, an even better harness and a fantastic plane ride later, we found ourselves sat on the edge of the plane, legs dangling and then woosh!, we were in freefall, the power and intensity of the wind blasting against your face, the world laid out in technicolour before you - it felt fantastic, and as we floated gently down to the ground, celebrating what we had just experienced, we knew we would be doing it again - one day!
A world in 3D:
It would be a crime not to spend a few minutes eulogising about the absolute insane natural beauty of New Zealand. The South Island in particular is stunning - snow-capped mountains, vast lakes, deep fjords, it really has got it all. Our favourites were: a horseride through Paradise, the venue for much of the filming for the LOTR trilogy, gazing out over the river plains in the sunshine, half-expecting a hobbit to run out from behind one of the trees in the beech forest; a spectacular cruise past majestic waterfalls, playful seal pups and staggering mountain peaks on Milford Sound, the most accessible of the fjords in the southern-most tip of the South, bathed once again in sun (we have been so lucky with the weather); and marvelling at various geysers, multi-coloured lakes, hot springs and plopping mud pools in the active geothermal areas of Rotorua and Taupo in the North Island.
Wine not?
After sampling the delectable wines and scrumptious winery cuisine in both South Africa and Australia, there was no way we were going to pass up the chance to get our lips around some cheeky Pinot in NZ. We visited small family productions in Nelson (we had one of the best wines we have ever tasted - 'Tom's Block' - at Neudorf), explored the famous Marlborough wine trail, and delighted in the 'trust the chef' menu in the Central Otago Amisfield winery overlooking Lake Hayes close to Queenstown. It's true: we have put on some poundage, enjoyed a tipple or two and are officially obsessed with tasty reds.
Take a hike!
Many people know New Zealand for its famously accessible and jaw-droppingly beautiful hikes - reputed to be some of the finest in the world. In preparation for our Machu Picchu trek next month, we thought we had better get in some training. We tackled some of the awesome 'Great Walks': Abel Tasman coastal track (25km of beech forest overlooking stunning beaches, alcoves, bays and inlets; and the Queen Charlotte Track (25km hiking along an undulating mountain ridge with the stunning Kenepuru Sound on one side and Queen Charlotte Sound on the other). We loved the lake and beach walks in Nelson, Wanaka, Te Anau and Taupo and took on some steep ascents in Queenstown (Bob's peak) and Milford (mountainous Key Summit and a scramble to the alpine Lake Marian). All in all, we really enjoyed the hiking here. We loved the feeling of reward and refresh you get on completion and the opportunity to breathe in the scenery and share the experience together.
After all this adventure we headed back to Auckland for a final couple of days. Our penultimate night was spent with some of S's cousins who left mighty Blighty for the kiwi lifestyle. We had a wonderful time sharing family stories, travelling tales and kiwi anecdotes. It was such a fitting ending to our time here. New Zealand feels like a distant cousin - a place you know of, feel immediately familiar with and easily enjoy.
So, after all this 'visiting' it is time to hit the 'travelling' circuit again. New cultures, different languages, new foods, drinks, smells, sights, tastes. It is time to head for South America - the final leg of our year long adventure.