Out of Bedford, into Africa.

The last time we left you, we were in the backpacker Mecca of Bedford (top ten destination in many a 'places to see before you die' compilation). After a lovely few days with family it was time to hit the road and head for South Africa - the first long haul destination on our travels. A bus ride from Milton Keynes, a tube journey across London (it was great to be back even if it was brief!), a long flight to Jo'burg (took in 'Son of Rambow' - great arthouse film, highly recommended -and dumbed it down with 'Drillbit Taylor' - Owen Wilson in fine form) and we were finally in Africa. Needless to say we got no sleep, Soph had a bit of a whitey (a combination of tiredness, wine and Malarone) and by the time we touched down in Jo'burg we were feeling a little weary. After a four hour wait we were on a second plane to Nelspruit (close to Kruger National Safari Park) joined by a group of old rich Americans struggling with their copious amounts of hand luggage in the tiny 29 seater plane ('state-of-the-art' according to the recorded commentary, much to the derision and sniggers of the passengers). 'I can't believe I'm trying to schlep all this stuff onto this plane' exclaimed one old guy - it was like being in an episode of 'Curb Your Enthusiasm'. After over 30 hrs awake, we reached Nelspruit, jumped into our hire car and proceeded to head for Kruger Safari Park (the largest and most impressive public game reserve in South Africa - and one of the best in the world). With S navigating and me driving in a semi-conscious state, it was no surprise that we managed to go completely the wrong way and added another 45 minutes onto our journey (it took us five minutes to start the car for God's sake - apparently you have to have the clutch engaged before the ignition will turn - a little tip for you). By the time we arrived at our destination ('Skukusa' - the largest camp in Kruger) it was 4 pm - we checked in, and headed straight on an organised Sunset Drive.

The drives in Kruger are amazing - about fifteen of you head off with a knowledgeable guide, some spotlights and as much fortune as Lady Luck is willing to throw your way. Three hours later we had seen Hippos, Elephants, Giraffes, waterbucks and a genet (wild cat) - it was amazing and also very trippy due to the lack of sleep - kind of like an animal-packed rural version of 'Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas'.

The following day we went on an afternoon Bush Walk (accompanied by two armed rangers) - they take you across the veld and you track game with them (best done at sunrise or sunset). We encountered warthog and hyena and had some fascinating animal facts relayed to us by our ranger Irvelt. As we drove back to the camp hugely satisfied by what we had encountered in the first 24 hrs, Irvelt enquired what we were doing in SA and as we relayed our plans for a year of travels, he filled with ex citement, enthusiasm and wished us all the luck in the world for the rest of our trip.

The next two days were spent in 'Mala Mala' - a luxurious and very exclusive private game reserve adjacent to Kruger. This was our 3rd year wedding anniversary present to ourselves (...3rd year is 'leather' apparently - make of that what you will) and a complete blow-out. We were greeted by our private ranger Gareth who looked after us the whole time - he took our bags, parked our car (admittedly the Yaris looked a little out of place among the Mercs and Beemers) and escorted us to lunch - the food was fantastic. With bellies filled it was time to head off to spot some game. After the taster we received in Kruger, we were simply blown away by the experience at Mala Mala - a little artific ial perhaps, but you get as close to guaranteed Big Five game spotting as you're likely to get any where in the world - Lions, Leopards, Elephants, Rhinos, Buffalo, Cheetas, Giraffes, Zebras and much much more. The highlights were the first glimpse of a male Lion (lazy thing, but utterly beguiling), the interaction between the female pride and their cubs, seeing wild dogs and their young eating a kill (an extremely rare sighting), watching a leopard up a tree devouring a fresh kill and experiencing the swell of a buffalo herd of 500 plus running towards water. The rest of our time at Mala Mala was just as breathtaking and, aside from our jeep breaking down in the dark in the middle of the bush, every hour was a rush on the senses - sight, sound, smell, touch - it was overwhelming. This feeling of being captivated, engaged, enthralled - like a kid discovering new things for the first time - continued for the next eight days as we moved our way up Kruger National Park (a park the size of Wales according to the literature - a fact only relevant perhaps to the few people who have actually visited Wales!). We stayed in bungalows, tents (kept awake by 'laughing' hippos), lived off eggs and bacon and went on some amazing Game Drives (sunrise and sunset).

The best part was the Bush Walks - one morning we trekked elephants for several kilometers and ate breakfast as they drunk from the river below us. On another, we walked alongside lions (five lionesses and a male lion) - one of the best experiences the ranger had ever had. When game was lacking, the rangers would talk you through many fascinating facts about the surrounding bush and we would try to ask intelligent questions - one day, the ranger was showing us the chamber of 200 community spiders - 'so do those spiders have many legs?' S perked up trying to show interest, muffling his laughter/annoyance the ranger quietly replied - 'just eight. Eight. Just like all spiders', and we slowly moved on. Later S was to make amends as she spotted a White Rhino in the distance - as we moved in closer and closer we were finally only a few feet away - 'stay quiet. Don't make a sound' instructed the ranger. Well, of course, the pressure was too much, S focussed as hard as she could on staying on two feet, but against all odds she lost her balance and slid down the mound. The ranger shot a glance our way, incredulous and petrified. The Rhino alerted and confused (their sense of vision is terrible) snorted loudly and began charging - they would be no match for a human or any other animal once they start a charge. Luckily the mighty charge powered just past us and we remained unscathed.

Humour aside, the beauty, priveledge and fascination we experi enced on those walks - interacting with game in the wild - will stay with us for a very long time.

As we woke up on the final morning of our time in Kruger, we headed off for a drive around Blyde River Canyon - one of the most awe-inspiring and accessible canyons in Africa. We drove through spartan villages, across shimmering rivers, along high mountain roads, eyes overloaded by the sheer beauty of the vistas around. We stopped off at two key panoramic points - 'The Three Rondavels' and 'God's Window' - both as close to picture perfect as you are likely to get anywhere in Africa. As the ad campaign for Mpumalanga exclaims - 'a region so wonderful that even God has a window'.

The next morning it was time to take a flight down to Port Elizabeth (via Jo'burg) on the south coast - the start of a long coastal drive (the 'Garden Route') to Cape Town. As we waited for the connecting flight in Jo'burg - every other passenger had left with their luggage apart from me. Apparently, losing luggage is a national pastime on South Africa Airways and we were told it would be placed on the next flight. Fortunately we had enough time to wait for this and three hours later I grabbed my bag off the conveyor belt, proudly carrying it between my arms, like a parent swooping up a lost child, S's beaming smile as she greeted us both. This was a little lesson for us to remember to pack a day bag - which we had failed to do. We literally had nothing with us - everything of use was in the missing bag. Glad to get that lesson out of the way early on!

After a night staying in a caravan site on the beach in Port Elizabeth, we realised that we had left the 40 degree glorious sunshine behind us in Nelspruit, for here on the coast the famously 'windy city' had just had it worst storms in decades. Fortunately, as we moved away from the coast onto a second National Game Reserve - Addo Elephant Park- it was back to glorious sunshine and more game spotting. We stayed in a gorgeous cottage, carved into the forrested mou tainside and spent three wonderful days watching elephants at sunset - it was magical.

Unfortunately, as we made our way back to the coast, the weather turned again - a fact verified as we moved on to our planned three nights stay in the rugged, desolate 'Storms River Mouth' (...I guess the clue's in the name). We got there and checked in, only to be told that the park was officially closed due to the recent storms but that they would accommodate the handful of people they couldn't get hold off to inform them of this. A little dubious, we drove down the long, winding road to the seafront and to our chalet. Things didn't look promising. The rain was lashing down, trees had fallen and smashed across nearby chalets and some had been washed away completely. Our chalet was a mere 20 metres from the crashing waves (which had reached over 7 metres high the night before). Well, in true stiff-upper-lip style, we decided to brave it out. As night drew in, we realised there wasn't a single other person staying in the park. We were alone and the deep rumbling of crashing waves grew louder and louder. Early next morning, we decided to give it up and head on to the next destination.

We headed along the coast, regained a bit of sunshine and stayed in the beautiful resorts of Plettenberg Bay, Knysna and Mossel Bay. We took in glorious beach walks, boat-based whale watching (immense and unforgettable), Monkeyland (gibbons, vervets, lemurs, tamarins and langurs - a fantastic primate sanctuary - watching monkeys is great fun - one of them had luminous genitals - fantastic!), an evening at the Phantom Forest Eco Reserve - beautiful food and great setting, a visit to an Elephant Sanctuary (walked and fed the Eles!) and magical forest walks (although we got completely lost on the first one!).

We had seen and experienced so much in these first few weeks and still had so much to look forward to in South Africa.